California coast – five-one-oh

After a spectacular day on the coast, we decided to stop at the Ritz Carlton in Half Moon Bay to enjoy the sunset and a cocktail. Upon arrival, we paid $10 for valet parking, the only option, and headed directly for the ocean terrace by the fire pits. We had Manhattans that cost an astounding $17.50. Each. And they were worth it – not because they were particularly special but because of the view. Let’s talk about the view.

The squashes at the resort entrance were one seasonal touch that fit with the locale

The Ritz Carlton is everything I don’t like and yet, I liked it. It’s a bit of Scotland on the California coast…because we need California to be Scotland? No. So, the resort features Scottish architecture? No. The hotel is an imposing, shingle style, turreted affair that’s supposed to “evoke the magnificence of 19th century seaside lodges”. Northeastern seaside lodges. The Hamptons come to mind. Okay, it’s a magnificent northeastern style seaside lodge set within a pair of Scottish golf courses with staff walking around in plaid knickers. The Ritz Carlton is not an example of regional design.

Why did I like it? I’ve spent a lot of time on the California coast and the beautiful view from the cliffs overlooking the ocean is never diminished. It can be foggy (and it probably will be), it can be windy, it can smell like the brussels sprouts growing on the bluffs, the beaches can be littered with brown seaweed covered in sand flies, and it is still the most breathtaking place I’ve ever been. The California coast is like a beautiful girl, hair tangled, barefoot in sandy jeans and a faded sweatshirt. The view from the Ritz Carlton ocean terrace on a clear day was like seeing her in a green velvet gown and high heels. It’s not the way I want the coast to be but I can’t help feeling glad I saw her that way.

After shaking off the sticker shock of the cocktails, we sallied forth to Navio, the restaurant at the resort, with a plan NOT to eat barely acceptable food at very expensive prices. The dining room is lovely and we were given a table at the window. We ordered conservatively, (two women can get away with significantly less food than a traditional couple) and ate a perfectly acceptable dinner for under $100. The service was good. The food was good. Nothing was memorable but the view. After we got back to Oaktown, I checked out Michael Bauer’s 2013 review and can say I think Navio has improved since his meal, but I won’t deny that the restaurant is not a good value.

The Ritz Carlton made me feel sorry for people who think the coastal experience is something they can buy. Without a deeper relationship with the shoreline, the Ritz Carlton is nothing but a fancy, out of place resort. Next time, we might still stop in for a cocktail at the Ritz, but afterwards we’ll head up Highway 1 to our favorite Half Moon Bay taqueria for dinner.

Devil's Slide - Sedimentary layers of shale and sandstone — From Devil’s Slide Trail, we can see sedimentary layers of shale and sandstone thrust up from the ocean floor.

We love going places! In an attempt to reduce our carbon footprint, we spend a lot of our free time traveling local. That doesn’t mean we never fly, but it’s remarkable how much you can learn by visiting places close to home.

Devil’s Slide Trail
This new open space was the first stop on our fall day trip to the coast. Over the years, we’ve been aware of the hellish landslides at this location, sometimes closing Highway 1 for months at a time. On this journey, we learned the area’s geology is the devil causing the slides.

At the north end of the trail are rough sedimentary layers of shale and sandstone that were once part of the ocean floor. At the south end, the cliffs are granitic rock of Montara Mountain. At Devil’s Slide, landslides occur where sedimentary layers were thrust over the granitic rock.

As a result of the landslides, Highway 1 was diverted through the Tom Lantos Tunnels in 2013 and the old highway was converted to this multi-use trail. The views from Devil’s Slide Trail are spectacular but the 1.3-mile walk leads only from parking lot to parking lot. It is a part of the California Coastal Trail and we’re looking forward to the day when it extends from Oregon to Mexico.

This Seafloor Map released by the US National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration shows the geology behind Mavericks.

Sail Rock from the beach at Pillar Point — Sail Rock as seen from Mavericks Beach at Pillar Point. Mavericks break is about 2 miles from shore, beyond the visible reef.

Mavericks
Geology plays an important role in another coastal site we visited: Pillar Point, site of the famous Mavericks break. Gradual ramping of the sea-floor, plus deeper water on both sides of the ramp are the key ingredients for the magnificent and sometimes malevolent waves.

Here’s my understanding of how this works: As a wave approaches the shore, its base slows as it runs along the rising seafloor while the top of the wave maintains its original speed. This causes the wave to stand up and pitch forward. The long, gradual slope at Mavericks creates an exceptionally tall wave. The wave continues at full speed at the deeper waters on each side of the ramp, allowing the wave to draw additional energy, and creating a wave convergence at the center of the ramp. After winter storms, waves at Mavericks can top out at over 80 feet.

The mild fall weather during our day trip produced little surf but it was a beautiful and adventure-filled day. We walked along Cowell Ranch Beach before stopping at the Ritz Carlton Half Moon Bay for dinner. I’ll tell you what we thought about that, next week.

Sources:
Devil’s Slide Brochure from San Mateo County Parks
Mavericks, California from Wikipedia
Map Reveals Secret of Awesome Mavericks Waves by Phil McKenna from New Scientist